Tuesday 13th April
I slept surprisingly well, considering that I was ensconced with a dozen or so strange blokes in a dormitory. I was quite impressed by the advanced age of the youths who frequented the Glenbrittle Youth Hostel, although to be fair later on some more youthful chaps & chapesses did arrive.
We had sausage butties and porridge for breakfast and were away shortly after 9, having discussed with the warden the midge-infested nature of Glenbrittle when the summer arrives. The first hour yielded only 3 miles as we pushed the tandem a good way up the enormous hill. Once over the other side, we kept up a good speed, but again had a bit of a slog just before we reached the A-road.
There was another climb over the top to Sligachan but it was long rather than steep. We stopped at the Sligachan Hotel for midday bacon butties and tea, and reached Sconser in time to see the 1 p.m. ferry waiting to depart for Raasay. I was quite concerned about our progress: this was to be a 46-mile or more day, at least 10 miles more than we had done on any other day, and I knew there would be large hills. The Glenbrittle hill was probably the highest of the day, but there were other close rivals, particularly as we approached our destination near Elgol.
It did not help that the A87 was the subject of major road works and a convoy system was in operation. We found oursleves stopped for some time behind a white van and a plan began to form.
“Shall I tap on the window and see if we can scrounge a lift?”
“No! You mustn’t!”
“Why not? He’s bound to be heading for the Kyle Bridge. He could drop us in Broadford and that would save us about 16 miles of nasty, busy road.”
“No, you mustn’t!”
Half an hour later we lifted the tandem out of the back of the van, I gave the driver a tenner and we freewheeled the few yards down to the same café where we had eaten our lunch a few days previously. When we finished our proper lunch we visited the wool shop again where Jan bought her fix of something colourful to play with when we get home.
After that we set off along the B-road towards Elgol. Initially it was easy going – not much climbing and lovely views, a low-level lochside road. But the last 5 or 6 miles were very hard work indeed, each big climb being followed by a steep descent and another big climb. I think the 25% descent into Elgol was possibly the steepest road we have ever ridden down.
We reached Rowan Cottage around 6 p.m but that would have been at least 9 o’clock without our lift from the White Van Man.
We dined at the Coruisk seafood restaurant where Jan had the decidedly unaquatic lamb cutlets. I went the whole crustacean and had squatties for starters. These poor little creatures are unfortunate to taste absolutely delicious, even though they bear a strong resemblance to a woodlouse, albeit about two inches long and in a delightful shade of pink. Just like woodlice, they arrive curled up into a ball. In order to remove the tasty bit from the carapace you have to uncurl the ball and then push edible flesh upwards with your thumbnail.
For my main course I had mussels and an “Elgol Mess” for afters. We finished off with coffee and a malt whisky (“The Ileach”) for me.